July 21st, 2011 
Abby Clucas 
Paris – All that glitters will frequently be in black this fall, especially at Chanel, whose latest haute couture show, staged Tuesday, July 5, in Paris, recreated the citys most elegant square, Place Vendome, in all its late night glory.
Instead of the squares famed bronzed green column topped by Napoleon, the set starred a huge transparent column on which perched an effigy of Coco Chanel, arms akimbo, straw hat on her head – the centerpiece of a virtual 18th century square created by trompe loeil fluorescent tubing neon lights and Perspex copies of Vendomes triple bulb street lights.
A masterly setting for a memorable collection of gleaming dark fabrics, worn by models on a glistening anthracite runway. Glitter even covered the long terrace benches on which the audience of some 2,000 sat.
“A dark tale dating from 1640,” explained Karl Lagerfeld of the medieval feeling and the chain mail like fabrics of much of this collection.
For fall, Lagerfeld suggests a power silhouette of broad shoulders and deep gorge neckline, used in a series of boucle opening suits.
His most audacious ideas were for early evening, cutting a slew of mini tops with stiff peplums, mostly worn over tight skirts and a great succession of darkly transparent boots. This autumn, Chanels famed wool boucle suits practically glisten with silver embroidery and shiny embellishment.
Lagerfelds finale had a dashing layered effect – tiers of fabric mixes with pearl embellished tops, shoulders dripping with crystals and sequins and columns finished with chards of chiffon.
This was a darkly romantic moment, best epitomized by the sprightly boaters with pleated silk trim and lace blindfolds worn by dozens of models.
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